What is Malbec?The dark red grape of Cahors and beyond, on our list at Fiena, King's Cross

A plate of bresaola and burrata with bread, held over a marble table at Fiena, King's Cross

Malbec is one of those reds you recognise by colour first: deep, almost black in the glass. There's a Malbec on the list at Fiena, our family-run Italian cafe, bar and restaurant at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street, London WC1H 9QX, a few minutes' walk from King's Cross St Pancras. Here's the grape behind it.

In this story
  1. A dark Bordeaux grape that found a home in Cahors
  2. A grape that travelled
  3. Ours at Fiena
  4. What to eat with it

A dark Bordeaux grape that found a home in Cahors

Malbec is a purple grape used for red wine. The berries are known for an inky dark colour and robust tannins, and Malbec is one of the six grapes allowed in the blend of red Bordeaux. In France today it's planted mainly in Cahors, in South West France, rather than in Bordeaux itself.

In Cahors the grape is also called Auxerrois or Côt Noir. Local rules say Malbec must make up at least 70% of an AOC Cahors wine, with up to 30% Merlot and/or Tannat allowed alongside. Vines have been planted around Cahors since about 50 BC. Background from Wikipedia's Malbec page and Wikipedia's Cahors wine page.

It's not the easiest grape in the vineyard. Malbec is susceptible to frost, coulure, downy mildew and rot, which is one reason plantings in France have fallen even as the wine's reputation has held. Newer clones and better vineyard work have helped. When the vine is healthy it can be a generous cropper, which is useful for everyday bottles as well as serious ones.

A grape that travelled

In the nineteenth century the grape also crossed the Atlantic. It was introduced to Argentina by the French agricultural engineer Michel Pouget in 1868, and it has since become closely identified with Argentine wine, especially from Mendoza. France's plantings have shrunk; Argentina's have grown. We mention that as the grape's wider story — not as a claim about the bottle on our list.

A pepperoni pizza fresh from the kitchen on a green marble table at Fiena, King's Cross

Ours at Fiena

On our drinks menu, the Malbec is described as having a distinctive intense deep red colour, with black cherry and spicy aromas on the nose. If you like dark, spicy reds, compare it with the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, medium-bodied with plum and red berry, or the Barolo, deep garnet with rose, ripe cherry, tar and warm spice. See our posts on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Barolo, Sangiovese and our guide to the wine list. Ask our team about glasses and bottles.

What to eat with it

A dark red with black cherry and spice suits richer plates from the main menu:

  • Diavola pepperoni pizza, with spicy nduja.
  • Linguine Fiena, with chicken, mushrooms, garlic and cream.
  • Whole sea bream, grilled, if you'd rather keep it simpler.
  • Or start with Padron peppers or Arancini mushroom.

A spicy red also works with the Goat cheese salad if you want something lighter, or with Tiramisu if you're finishing the bottle at the end of the meal. See our pasta, the grill and País, another dark red on the list.

A server adds black pepper to creamy linguine at Fiena

Guests notice the quality of the cooking. Robin wrote: The Linguini Fiena was honestly one of the best pasta dishes I've ever had. (Robin, Google review) And David: It is worth every pound I spent. (David, Google review)

Visit Fiena

Book a table on Judd Street.

A deep red glass and a plate of pasta, a few minutes from King's Cross. Book a table or just walk in. Please drink responsibly.

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