From the grill: saltimbocca, lamb cutlets and whole sea bream

The bar and dining room at Fiena, King's Cross, with its framed-panel wall and mosaic floor

Past the pasta and pizza, the main menu at Fiena settles into the serious end of an Italian kitchen: meat and fish cooked simply and served with intent, from midday every day in King's Cross.

Carne

Saltimbocca alla Romana does the Roman thing properly, veal, Parma ham, sage and butter. Pollo alla Milanese comes breaded with napoli spaghetti, pollo ai funghi goes creamy with sauteed mushrooms, and grilled lamb cutlets arrive with beef jus and roasted potatoes. The Fiena burger, smashed patties, caramelised onions, American cheese, homemade sauce, holds the comfort corner with chips.

Pesce

A whole grilled sea bream, sea bass with capers sauce, salmon in lemon butter, and the mixed fried seafood plate for the table. French beans and rosemary potatoes do the sides justice.

Tables and bar inside Fiena restaurant near King's Cross station

Pair with a Barolo or the house Sangiovese from the wine list, and finish with tiramisu. Book a table at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street.