What is País?The grape the Spanish brought to the Americas, now a red on our list at Fiena, King's Cross

The dining room ready for service at Fiena, King's Cross

Most people know Chilean wine for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Carmenère. But for centuries, the grape that filled Chile's vineyards was a humbler one called País. There's one on the red list at Fiena, our family-run Italian cafe, bar and restaurant at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street, London WC1H 9QX, a few minutes' walk from King's Cross St Pancras. Here's the story of one of the oldest wine grapes in the Americas.

In this story
  1. A grape that crossed the Atlantic
  2. Chile's workhorse grape
  3. Ours at Fiena
  4. What to eat with it

A grape that crossed the Atlantic

País is believed to have come to Chile with Spanish settlers from Peru in the 16th century. Grape experts think it descends from the Spanish "common black grape" that Hernán Cortés brought to Mexico in 1520. From there, missionaries carried the vine across the Americas, because they needed wine for Mass.

That's why the same grape has different names in different countries. In California it's the Mission grape, first planted there by Junípero Serra at Mission San Diego de Alcalá in 1769. In Argentina it's known as Criolla Chica, and it's sometimes called Negra Peruana. In 2006, Spanish scientists at the Centro Nacional de Biotecnología in Madrid finally solved the mystery of where it came from: its DNA matched a little-known Spanish variety called Listán Prieto. Back in Spain, phylloxera wiped those old vines out everywhere except the Canary Islands.

Chile's workhorse grape

País was Chile's most planted grape until around the turn of the 21st century, when Cabernet Sauvignon overtook it. Today it's mostly grown in the south of the country, in the Bío-Bío, Maule and Itata regions. Growers value it because it's vigorous and easy to grow, and the vine copes well with drought. Old Mission vines have a thick, twisting trunk that looks more like a small tree.

Traditionally, País made light, rustic everyday wine, much of it drunk at home in Chile. The grape has thin skins, which is part of why it often gives a lighter-coloured red. Background from Wikipedia's País page and its page on the Mission grape.

A green banquette and a framed portrait on the wall at Fiena

Ours at Fiena

On our drinks menu, the Pais Lot 215 Garage Wine is described as a deep dark ruby, with ripe red fruit, subtle spice and earthy undertones. It's medium-bodied, with round tannins and an elegant finish. If you'd like to compare it with other reds on the list, try the Merlot Family Vintage from Tres Palacios in the Maipo, Chile, the Malbec with black cherry and spice, or, to stay in Italy, the Cara Amica Sangiovese and the fragrant Pinot Nero. See our guide to our wine list and our posts on Sangiovese and Pinot Nero. Ask our team about glasses and bottles when you order.

What to eat with it

A medium-bodied red with red fruit and a little earthiness is easy to match with food. From our main menu, which starts at midday:

  • Lamb cutlets, grilled and served with beef jus and roasted potatoes.
  • Spaghetti bolognese or Lasagna, both made with slow-cooked beef ragù.
  • Pollo ai funghi, pan-fried chicken with sautéed mushrooms and cream. The earthy notes in the wine suit the mushrooms.
  • Risotto mushrooms, creamy Arborio risotto with mushroom, parmesan and butter.
  • Funghi al forno, a baked flat mushroom with ricotta and spinach sauce, to start.
  • Capricciosa pizza, with ham, mushroom, olives and artichokes.

See our posts on spaghetti bolognese, lasagna, our chicken dishes and funghi al forno.

A server adds black pepper to creamy linguine at Fiena

Guests often say the room suits a glass of wine. Ayub wrote that the place has a relaxed vibe that made it perfect for both a casual meal and a nicer night out. (Ayub, Google review) And Nasipa: The atmosphere is cozy and well-designed, making it a great spot for a relaxed meal. (Nasipa, Google review)

Visit Fiena

Book a table on Judd Street.

A red with five centuries of history behind it, and a plate of pasta to go with it, a few minutes from King's Cross. Book a table or just walk in. Please drink responsibly.

More from the journal

All stories

5 min read

What is gin?

Few drinks are as tied up with London's history as gin. It was blamed for a public health crisis in the 18th century, gave its name to a whole style of spiri...

Read the story

4 min read

What is Inzolia?

Ask for an Italian white and most people think of Pinot Grigio. But Italy has hundreds of local grapes, and some of the most interesting come from Sicily. On...

Read the story