What is Cognac?VS, VSOP and XO explained, and an after-dinner brandy at Fiena, King's Cross

All Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac. The name comes from the town of Cognac in western France, and to use it, the spirit has to be made in an officially defined area in the Charente and Charente-Maritime departments. The rules are strict, from the grapes to the stills to the barrels.

The main grape is Ugni blanc, which Italians will know better as Trebbiano. The white wine made from it is very dry, sharp and thin, and only about 7 to 8% alcohol, so you wouldn't want to drink it. But it's perfect for distilling.

The wine is distilled twice in traditional copper pot stills, called Charentais alembics. What comes out is a clear spirit of about 70% alcohol. It then has to age for at least two years in French oak barrels, from the Limousin or Tronçais forests, and most Cognac spends much longer in the barrel than that.

While it ages, around 3% of the spirit evaporates through the wood every year. The locals call this la part des anges, "the angels' share". Most Cognac is a blend of spirits of different ages, put together by a master taster, the maître de chai, so that each house's Cognac tastes the same from year to year.

The age on a label is the age of the youngest spirit in the blend:

• VS (Very Special), or three stars: at least two years in the barrel.
• VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale): at least four years.
• Napoléon: at least six years.
• XO (Extra Old): at least ten years, since the rules changed in April 2018.

Why English and not French? Because in the 18th century, much of the Cognac trade ran through Britain. Four big houses, Courvoisier, Hennessy, Martell and Rémy Martin, make a large share of it. Courvoisier is even nicknamed "the Cognac of Napoleon". Traditionally it's served in a snifter, a short-stemmed glass with a wide bowl, so your hand can warm it and release the aroma. Background from Wikipedia's Cognac page.

On our drinks menu, the brandy list includes Hennessy, Courvoisier VS, Rémy Martin and Courvoisier XO, plus Metaxa. Spirits are poured in 25ml measures. So if you want to taste the difference between a young VS and an XO aged at least ten years, you can try both side by side. If you prefer whisky or bourbon, see our guide to our whisky, bourbon and tequila.

A brandy is a classic way to finish a meal, and it goes well with something sweet. From our dessert menu:

• Tiramisu, espresso-soaked ladyfingers layered with mascarpone cream and dusted with cocoa.
• Soufflé al cioccolato, a rich chocolate dessert with a liquid centre.
• Chocolate brownie, served warm with ice cream and seasonal fruit.
• Profiteroles, choux pastry filled with Chantilly cream.
• Affogato, ice cream with espresso, if you'd like a coffee too.

Or just have it with an espresso. See our posts on tiramisu, gelato and affogato, soufflé al cioccolato, profiteroles and Italian coffee.

Guests often save room for the sweet course. Ayub wrote: the desserts were genuinely impressive (the tiramisu was a highlight!). (Ayub, Google review) And Katelyn: Highly recommend this cosy, inviting place to anyone looking for a good bite! (Katelyn, Google review)

“could eat here everyday… outstanding service”

Shakib, Google reviews, 2026